Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

In preparation to install the trailing edge wedge using tank sealant, I first scuffed the wedges and skin interior trailing edges with 150 grit sandpaper, and wiped all parts down with acetone. I also positioned both flaps and trailing edge wedges so that I could easily work with them while applying proseal. In order to keep the trailing edge flat while curing, I used my previously prepared square aluminum tubes, with holes that I had match drilled to the trailing edge. By clecoing the trailing edge to these jigs, the edge is not only kept straight, but the clecoes keep both skins pressed firmly against the wedges while the sealant cures. Both flaps and wedges cleaned and positioned for easy application of sealant After mixing the proseal components, and carefully applying a thin layer to each wedge in turn, I was able to easily cleco the wedges and skins to the aluminum alignment jigs, and leave the sealant to cure for several days. After about 5 days of curing, during which the weath...

After a short break from building the RV-10 (for a long awaited family vacation), I picked up where I left off, and riveted the flap ribs and hinge bracket assemblies to the spars.  Except for the outer ribs at each end of the spars, all other ribs and assemblies were easily riveted using the pneumatic squeezer and longeron yoke. I also set all rivets with the manufactured head on the thinner material. I had to temporarily uncleco some ribs to gain access to rivet others, but by working along the spar setting each rib in turn, there were no issues getting the squeezer and yoke square to the rivet. Rivets holding flap ribs to the spar Shop heads formed on the spar to avoid rib flanges from deforming while riveting  For the outer ribs, the nose and trailing ribs share rivets, and getting the squeezer in there would have meant pushing one of the ribs (the trailing rib was easier to push) out of the way. However, doing this I could see the flange of the rib being pulled away from ...

Prior to final assembly of the flaps and ailerons, I went through the usual steps to prime the flap and aileron skins, and other additional control surface parts that were yet to be primed. This was all straightforward, and I just had to make sure to prime any mating surfaces as well as not prime the trailing edges. Flap skins cleaned, etched and trailing edge taped off, ready to be primed Flap skins and nose skins primed and ready for assembly Aileron skins etched... ...along with aileron stiffeners Aileron skins also ready for final assembly after priming ...along with the aileron skin stiffeners Primer used:   ~146g + 14g distilled water (flap skins)                                ~91g +   9g distilled water (aileron skins and stiffeners) Time Taken:       8.2  hours Dates:                    August 31...