I started on the baggage door by carefully bending the frames as outlined in the plans. I then skipped over the final drilling as the holes were already final sized, and cut the hinge to the specified length.
To make the baggage door removable, I decided to do what several other builders have documented, and split the hinge pin so that the two pieces can be inserted from the center of the hinge. This also requires the hinge halves to have a portion of a few eyelets removed to allow the hinge pins to be inserted.
With the hinge pin inserted from the center of the hinge, the hinge itself can be attached so that it is almost flush to the fuselage skin.
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| Hinge pin halves will be held in place via a 3D printed clip that is screwed to the F-1058 Hinge Frame. |
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| Hinge after match drilling to the F-1058 Hinge Frame and hinge pin modification |
After match drilling one side of the hinge, I clecoed the hinge to the baggage door frame, and the frame to the exterior baggage door cover, and then clamped the assembly to the F-1058 Hinge Frame. I then adjusted the position of the hinge on the hinge frame so that the exterior baggage door panel would be flush with the fuselage skin when the baggage door was fully closed. This resulted in the hinge being barely proud of the skin by about 1/32".
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| Clamping the hinge to the door and hinge frame for match drilling |
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| With the hinge in position, I verified that hole edge distance from the edge of the hinge would be sufficient, and then match drilled holes a few holes from the hinge frame into the hinge, adding a cleco as each hole was drilled |
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| Hinge match drilled to the hinge frame through a few holes, baggage door and clamps removed |
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| Hinge frame to hinge match drilling completed on the workbench |
Next I marked the position for a #6 nutplate on the interior of the hinge frame to allow the hinge clip to be screwed in place to secure the hinge pins. Due to the thickness of the hinge, I also added a doubler that will sit next to the hinge and prevent the hinge pins from being bent towards the hinge frame when the clip screw is tightened.
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| Hinge clip #D printed in Polycarbonate, along with doubler that will sit under it, and holes drilled into hinge frame for doubler and nutplate attachment |
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| I also test fit the F-1081 left baggage cover, match drilled the holes into the F-1034C-L bulkhead and left baggage floor, and then deburred all holes and edges |
Countersinking the hinge holes is a little tricky due to the eyelets being in the way of the countersink cage, but I was able to use a scrap piece of 1/8" aluminum with a cutout placed over the hole to allow the countersink cage to center. I only had to readjust the countersink depth to account for the thickness of the aluminum spacer, after which countersinking the hinge holes was an easy and consistent process.
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| 1/8" spacer placed over hinge hole to allow the countersink cage to clear the eyelets |
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| Hinge countersinking complete |
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| All baggage door parts deburred and ready for priming |
After priming the baggage door parts, I began final assembly by riveting the hinge halves to the frames along with the hinge clip doubler and nutplate.
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| Hinge halves and clip doubler riveted to baggage door frames |
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| #6 nutplate riveted to hinge frame under the clip doubler |
I then clecoed the baggage door and test fit it to the fuselage. Everything fit well and the gap around the edge of the door was a consistent 1/16" all the way around.
Without the interior panel, the baggage door is quite flimsy and I did notice that with just clecoes the door did not sit quite flush with the fuselage opening especially along the top edge and bottom aft corner. To address this, I will rivet the interior panel with the baggage door in place while using tape and applying pressure to ensure the door is flush to the fuselage all the way around.
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| Baggage door clecoed and attached to hinge. I initially used tape to help hold the door flush to the fuselage skin, but was happy to see a consistent gap all the way around the edge of the door |
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| Hinge is recessed, protruding less than 1/32" to account for the hinge thickness |
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| On the inside everything looks good with clecoes helping to pull the baggage door into shape |
After verifying the baggage door fit, I riveted the hinge frame into place in the fuselage, and completed setting the two rivets in the longeron and seat back brace gusset that were previously left out. These two rivets were tricky to set due to very limited space, but I was able to reach them using the long steel bucking bar.
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| Hinge frame riveted to side skin |
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| I attached some angled wood pieces to my long bucking bar to allow me to rest it against the seat back brace while setting the two rivets under the longeron and seat back brace gusset |
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| Bucking bar held firmly in place while using the rivet gun to set the rivets under the seat back brace |
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| While the shop heads didn't look as good as others, I verified that they were in spec with a rivet gauge |
I then completed riveting of the Left Baggage Cover to the hinge frame, baggage floor and fuselage bulkhead
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| I did not set the 4 rivets along the fuselage bulkhead above the longeron as I may later attach nutplates here and use those to attach the Aerosport interior panel that will go in this location |
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| Nutplates riveted along the side of the left baggage cover and fuselage bulkhead |
Next I turned my attention to final assembly of the baggage door itself. To get the best possible fit, I decided to use skin pins during riveting to hold everything together as tightly as possible.
I began by riveting the baggage door frame to the outer panel. Space is limited, but bucking the rivets is not difficult.
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| Baggage door held securely in vise while riveting. I did need to reposition the door several times to rivet close to the vise and thereby minimize vibrations while bucking |
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| Baggage door outer panel to frame riveting complete |
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| I temporarily attached a lock to the baggage door and connected the hinge. All looks good so far except for alignment along the top edge and bottom aft corner which should get resolved while riveting the interior panel |
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| Interior baggage door panel attached with skin pins after making sure that the baggage door exterior was aligned with the fuselage skin. I taped some 1/8" thick foam along the baggage door opening to simulate the seal that will be added later and aid in making sure the baggage door aligned well |
After test fitting the baggage door using skin pins, I attached the lock that I will be using for the baggage door. I chose to go with the
ESP ULR-625STD KA ES102 5/8" Cam Lock, Keyed Alike ES102 lock from Mr. Lock, and also ordered 2 more of the equivalent locks with a 7/8" barrel that I will be using for the cabin doors, so that all 3 locks will work with the same key.
