Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

I was able to clear some space in my garage after finishing the tail cone assembly, and moved on to installing the left wing top skins.  Following the same steps I had gone through to attach the right wing top skins, I began by spending some additional time making sure the wing spar was level (not bowed or twisted). I was the able to easily cleco on the top skins and the inboard rib nutplates. Left wing spar leveled and clamped Top skins clecoed to left wing spars and ribs. All parts lined up really well. Inboard rib nutplates clecoed in place My daughter and I then started riveting the top skins to the left wing skeleton as we had previously done for the right wing, staring from the center of the outboard top skin working radially outwards. The beginning of left wing top skin riveting Outboard top left wing skin riveted to the outboard end Once most of the outboard top skin was riveted on, we started riveting the inboard top skin working out from the center again. Making progress ...

Continuing on with top skin riveting on the right wing, my daughter and I completed most rivets on the outboard skin (except for those near the skin overlap), and started riveting the inboard skin from the center outward. Getting close to completing all rivets on the right outboard top skin. Very happy with the results so far. Starting to rivet the right inboard top skin to the ribs I put tape over the universal head rivets at the inboard end of the rear spar to avoid scuffing them while riveting the skin to the rear spar Outboard top skin fully riveted except for the skin overlap area With the outboard top skin riveted all the way to the outboard edge, I was now able to rivet in the outboard aileron bracket. I started by riveting the bracket to the rear spar first, but decided to delay riveting it to the outboard rib because I'll need to move the wing assembly a little to make additional room for the rivet gun. Outboard aileron bracket riveted to the rear wing spar Next, my daught...

With the skeletons of both wings assembled, I was now ready to begin attaching the top skins.  Starting with the right spar, I placed it across 4 saw horses that I had modified to ensure they were all roughly the same height. Using a laser level, I put shims under the spar along the sawhorses until the spar was uniformly straight along its entire length (zero bow). I then used a box level to ensure that there was no twist in the spar, and finally clamped the spar securely to the sawhorses at both ends. Using a laser level to ensure that the main spar is straight, not bowed, and supported well across each saw horse Main spar clamped at inboard end... ...and at outboard end to prevent any movement Spar was also checked for level between each pair of ribs to ensure that it was not twisted Main spar leveled, clamped and ready for attaching top skins Next I positioned the skin stiffeners in place, and then clecoed the inboard top skin and wing walk doublers onto the ribs. I wasn't happy...

With another break in the recent rainy weather, I decided to start prepping the top wing skins for priming.  I will be priming only the mating surfaces on the skins to minimize the amount of primer weight added to the wings. To mask off the areas not to be primer/prepped, I cut 3mil plastic sheet into squares (sized to the appropriate wing skin sections) and taped them in place. I'll need to do this twice (once for applying EkoEtch, and again before spraying EkoPrime), although I will be reusing the plastic sheets in both cases. Inboard top wing skin masked off. I will be priming the entire skin area under the wing walk doublers, as well as both sides of the doublers themselves Outboard top wing skin masked off. I left roughly an inch for priming along the rivet lines. Next I applied EkoEtch to the skin stiffeners, wing walk doublers and top wing skins.  Skin stiffeners and wing walk doublers drying after being treated with EkoEtch Inboard wing skin after EkoEtch treatment Out...