Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

It was time to start dimpling and countersinking the holes in the rest of the elevator parts. I began by dimpling the skins using the DRDT-2. This was easy as the skins are flat. I used the Main Squeeze to dimple the holes in the closeout tabs with  1/8" 120 degree dies that conform to the CS4-4 rivets to be used there. Skins dimpled, except for trailing edges to be dimpled later I then worked on dimpling the front and rear spars. The front spar is easy to dimple using the pneumatic squeezer. The rear spar took a little more effort as there are 29 holes that need to be countersunk, while the rest are dimpled. While countersinking the rear spar I ran into an issue with chatter as I was working on the second hole. My initial countersinking setup was as follows. 1st attempt at countersinking the rear spar. I had a strip of wood with holes drilled into it onto which I rested the rear spar flange. I used a sheet of aluminum from the empennage trim kit to help support the countersink c...

Continuing on with assembling the elevators, I deburred the edges of the trim access reinforcement plates and clecoed them into the elevators. There was no need to final size the holes. I also deburred and attached the elevator gussets and clecoed them to the root ribs and the rear spar. There was no need to adjust the angles of the gussets to fit, but I did have to final drill the 4 holes in the gussets and matching holes in the spar and rib from #40 to #30. Reinforcement plates and gussets attached prior to final drilling Next, I attached the two remaining shear clips to the rear spars, and the assembled tip ribs to the elevators. The E-904 rib rests inside the front spar, with the counterbalance skin resting over the front spar, and the elevator skin over the counterbalance skin. Tip rib attached to the elevator prior to attaching the top skin With the elevator skeleton fully assembled, I proceeded to cleco the top skins in place. No issues here and the skin close out tabs fit toget...