Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

Finishing up work on the main spars, I primed the tie down brackets and left them to cure for a couple of days. Brackets primed and curing I also added a few additional (temporary) supports to my wing cradle so that I could move the spars over and free up workbench space. I'm happy with how the cradle has turned out. When it comes time to attach the skins, I'll remove the temporary supports and finish attaching the support straps. Spars resting on wing cradle. Temporary supports are held in place with clamps for easy removal. I first riveted the nutplates to the tie down brackets with the squeezer. Tie down brackets ready to be riveted to the spars Carefully lifting a spar onto is side and clamping it down, I completed riveting the wing attach (squeezed) and fuel tank attach (bucked) nutplates. For the fuel tank attach nutplate rivets closest to the step bars, I switched to using a 3/4" mushroom set as the 1" set was a little too large to fit. Using clamps and support...

Moving on to a new page in the plans, I squeezed the rivets attaching the bellcrank angles to the bellcrank ribs, leaving open the two holes at the forward end of the right rib. Squeezing rivets to attach the bellcrank angles to the ribs All rivets set (except for 2 as directed). The nutplates did not interfere with rivet setting I then clecoed the bellcrank ribs to the bottom skin and bulkheads, and was able to buck the rivets (long arms helped here). Bellcrank ribs clecoed in position, and ready to have rivets bucked Next, I worked on the rivets holding the bellcrank rib flanges to the F-1007 bulkhead. I am attaching the Garmin Yaw Servo mount at this point because it needs to be riveted through 4 of the same holes, but I am using AN470 4-5 rivets in those holes, rather than the plans specified 4-4 rivets. I had attempted to squeeze the top two 4-4 rivets first because those are not attached to the servo mount, but quickly found that this will not work because there is a nutplate ver...

Continuing on with the final steps before priming, I countersunk the #40 holes in the longerons, leaving out the holes that will be used to attach the empennage fairing later. The vice worked well here to hold the longeron securely while I used the pneumatic drill. Countersinking 160 holes in the two tail cone longerons With only the skins left to dimple, I decided to continue with tail cone modifications picking up where I left off with the Rudder Cable Fairings. After receiving an MS20668-4 eye fitting from Amazon, I was able to make some small adjustments to the fit of the fairings and re-marked the hole locations. Rudder cable fairings remarked after checking for cable end pass-through With everything marked, I cut the spacers on the band saw, and drilled the fairing holes with a 3/32" bit. I also match drilled the common holes in the fairings with the same bit. Match drilling the rudder cable fairings Next I trimmed the fairings to size, cut an angle on the open ends of the f...