Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

After priming all the tail cone pieces, I realized that I had forgotten to mask off the area around the holes where the static port is attached. This was easily fixed after the fact by masking with painters tape and wiping with acetone. Taping off the area around the static port hole so that primer can be removed Static port hole with primer removed where port will bond to skin I plan to back rivet as much of the tail cone as I can, and will therefore be clecoing it together from the inside as I start to reassemble it. So that the protruding cleco tails don't interfere with back riveting, I also cut up some carpet (pile ~ 0.5") to support the skins and allow the cleco tails to sink in.  Carpet panels will be used to support skins and clecos while back riveting I also had to tape a 1/4" piece of MDF hardboard to the underside of my back rivet plate to raise it to the level of the carpet and ensure that the skins would have good contact with the plate while riveting. In add...

Continuing on with the final steps before priming, I countersunk the #40 holes in the longerons, leaving out the holes that will be used to attach the empennage fairing later. The vice worked well here to hold the longeron securely while I used the pneumatic drill. Countersinking 160 holes in the two tail cone longerons With only the skins left to dimple, I decided to continue with tail cone modifications picking up where I left off with the Rudder Cable Fairings. After receiving an MS20668-4 eye fitting from Amazon, I was able to make some small adjustments to the fit of the fairings and re-marked the hole locations. Rudder cable fairings remarked after checking for cable end pass-through With everything marked, I cut the spacers on the band saw, and drilled the fairing holes with a 3/32" bit. I also match drilled the common holes in the fairings with the same bit. Match drilling the rudder cable fairings Next I trimmed the fairings to size, cut an angle on the open ends of the f...

I continued on with the tail cone by deburring all parts, starting with small parts. I had already deburred all edges and a fair number of holes in previous work sessions, so the majority of deburring now was just the remaining holes. It still took a while! Using the saw horses to support the skins while deburring the remaining holes The square aluminum tubes add additional support to prevent skin sagging Next I drilled the 11/16" hole on the aft bottom skin for the tie down with the drill press. Drilling the aft tailcone skin on the drill press with a unibit Tie down hole done! I cut off the previously marked triangular portion at the front of the right side skin using a dremel with a cutoff wheel for the initial rough cut. I then used a vixen file to clean the cut to the marked line, and needle files and a scotchbrite pad to finish the cut. Using clamps to hold the right skin while cutting off the triangular portion with a dremel and cutoff wheel Triangular piece removed and cut...