Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

With Van's latest guidance and testing of laser cut parts, along with their revised affected parts list, the only parts I have recommended for replacement (based on their very conservative testing strategy) are the following red and yellow labeled parts:  A-1005-1L - Main Rib A-1005-1R - Main Rib A-1015-1L - Inboard Nose Rib A-1015-1R - Inboard Nose Rib FL-1004-L - Flap Nose Rib FL-1004-R - Flap Nose Rib W-1010-L-1 - Inboard Wing Rib .032 W-1010-R-1 - Inboard Wing Rib .032 W-1025B - Flap Hinge Rib W-1029A-L - Torque Tube Bracket W-1029A-R - Torque Tube Bracket W-1029B-L - Torque Tube Bracket W-1029B-R - Torque Tube Bracket Blue labeled parts have a lifetime equivalent to punched parts, so those do not need replacing.  To close out section 13, all that remained was to rivet the spar extensions and splice plates to the main spars. Once I had the spars securely clamped to the workbench, these rivets were easily bucked. Right main spar clamped in position for riveting the spar ext...

Finishing up work on the main spars, I primed the tie down brackets and left them to cure for a couple of days. Brackets primed and curing I also added a few additional (temporary) supports to my wing cradle so that I could move the spars over and free up workbench space. I'm happy with how the cradle has turned out. When it comes time to attach the skins, I'll remove the temporary supports and finish attaching the support straps. Spars resting on wing cradle. Temporary supports are held in place with clamps for easy removal. I first riveted the nutplates to the tie down brackets with the squeezer. Tie down brackets ready to be riveted to the spars Carefully lifting a spar onto is side and clamping it down, I completed riveting the wing attach (squeezed) and fuel tank attach (bucked) nutplates. For the fuel tank attach nutplate rivets closest to the step bars, I switched to using a 3/4" mushroom set as the 1" set was a little too large to fit. Using clamps and support...

There's a little more work to be done on the main spars, and this starts with reaming and countersinking the nutplate and 1/8" rivet holes at the inboard ends of both spars.  Countersinking was straightforward other than the two fuel tank attach nutplate holes closest to the step bars. I used a countersink cutter without a cage to slowly drill these to the required depth. I also had to be careful to make sure I countersunk on the correct side of the spar web as outlined in the plans Using a countersink cutter without cage to slowly drill the two holes closest to the step bars Wing attach nutplate and 1/8 rivet holes countersunk on the aft side of the spar web Fuel tank attach nutplate holes countersunk on the forward side of the spar web Next I continued with fabricating the tie down brackets. I had previously tapped the tie down hole, cut the brackets to size, and drilled a pilot hole. Using the pilot hole, I clecoed the bracket to the spar and then match drilled the #30 and ...

The wing spars were now ready for nutplate attachment. I began by clecoing the fuel tank attachment nutplates to the spars, and riveted those in place using the pneumatic squeezer. Fuel tank attachment nutplates clecoed into the spar flange To squeeze the rivets on the MS21053-L08 nutplates I had to hold it in place with two rivets. Using a cleco got in the way of the squeezer Fuel tank attachment nutplates riveted in place Fuel tank attachment nutplates riveted at inboard end of spar I then skipped ahead a step and also riveted the access panel attachment nutplates in the same way. Access panel attachment nutplates held in place with clecoes Access panel attachment nutplates all riveted With the nutplate riveted, I was ready to start countersinking the screw holes to accept #8 (fuel tank attachment screws) and #6 (access panel attachment screws) skin dimples. To ensure that I countersunk to the correct depth, I took a scrap piece of 0.032" aluminum, drilled it with a #19 and a #2...

The next few steps in preparing the spars have you countersinking all the (hundreds of )holes to various depths, and riveting tank attach and access panel nutplates in place.  First off, I reamed all remaining 3/32" holes to #40 (those that I had not previously drilled) as they are all slightly undersized. I continued by clamping the spar on its side, and taping off any areas where metal chips could enter which would then be difficult to remove.  Spar clamped to workbench and any areas where metal chips could fall in are taped off with masking tape I then countersunk all the nutplate attach rivet holes for tank attachment and access panels to flush rivet depth. I also countersunk the 7 rib to spar attach rivet holes that were in line with the tank attach nutplates to flush rivet depth on each spar flange (28 holes in total). Countersinking nutplate attach rivet holes to flush depth. I used a rivet to test each and every holes as I drilled to ensure that the countersink cage wa...