Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

Continuing on with the horizontal stabilizer, I began riveting the front spar flanges to the skins. There is nothing too tricky about this step, except that it involves bucking 232 rivets and squeezing another 8! I am currently able to buck an average of 1 rivet every 2 minutes or so (including inspecting, moving parts/clecos around and all the other small things going on during the bucking process), but I feel that will improve over time as I get more experience. I started riveting in the middle of each skin where the rivet size changes (from 3-4 to 3-4.5) and worked my way out toward the skin edges. To get the initial set on the rivet, I used a lower PSI and then increased the PSI (at the restrictor by 2-3 notches as needed) to fully set the rivet. This worked well and all rivets were flush to the skin, and I also did not have to drill out a single one which I was very happy with. Rather than the standard 1" mushroom set, I used the Boeing Design Anti-Slip Flush Rivet Set with P...

I started riveting the horizontal stabilizer skeleton together, specifically the inboard in-spar ribs to the stringer web, followed by the stringers to the stringer web and to each other.  I was able to get all the rivets squeezed using the flange nose yoke, but decided to switch to using the Cleaveland Main Squeeze for more control over squeezing some of the rivets in the corners of the stringer web. The rest of the 1/8" rivets were squeezed using the pneumatic squeezer. I don't think I would have been able to squeeze the rivets without the flange nose yoke, but it was still awkward maneuvering the yoke over the stringers, as I had to open the set holder as much as possible to get it to fit over. I then had to adjust the set spacing while the squeezer was held over the stringers. Stringer web riveted in place I had a small issue squeezing one of the rivets into the stringers and stringer web. As I was starting to manually squeeze the rivet, the rivet slipped out so that the s...

The final steps before starting to rivet require deburring and countersinking the front and rear spar #40 holes. To assist in countersinking the spar flange holes, I set up supports at each end of my bench using 2x4s to which I could clamp the spar. I used a similar piece of 2x6 that I would place beneath the hole being countersunk to add support behind the hole. The 2x6 had holes drilled into it to accept the countersink pilot. Setup to countersink the front and rear spar flange holes 2x6 used to add support behind the hole being countersunk. Hole spacing in this piece matches the hole spacing in the spar to minimize the number of times I need to move this piece along the spar In all, there are 492 holes that need to be countersunk in the spars. This took a while, but all countersunk holes turned out well. I had to be careful on the holes at the ends of the flanges as there was less support for the countersink cage. I also taped over the gaps between the spar and spar doubler, as I wa...

Today I primed the remaining parts for the horizontal stabilizer. I began by using EkoEtch to etch all the pieces, making sure that I kept everything organized with the parts close to their associated labels. Having so many similar looking ribs and stringers, it is important to know which piece goes where otherwise holes may not line up when it comes to riveting. Stringers prior to etching, with labels close by Etching large parts outside and using a hose to rinse The ribs were also etched and laid out in order. Etching is the most time consuming part of the priming process as you need to scrub all sides of the parts for 3 minutes each part, then the rinse and dry. Ribs etched and labeled Skins were also etched and rinsed outside, and brought inside to dry. Interior skin surfaces etched and ready for priming Once the ribs had dried thoroughly, I transferred them to the rack I had built that would allow me to easily move them around as they were primed. The ribs were held in place with ...

To get the remaining horizontal stabilizer parts ready for priming, I had to debur all holes, dimple most of them and countersink a lot of them along the stringers and spars. I began by deburring the rib holes, and dimpling the 3/32" holes along the rib flanges (except for those that are for fairing attachment or that sit inside the stringers/spars). This was easily accomplished using the pneumatic squeezer. Ribs and stringer web deburred, dimpled as needed and ready for priming I then proceeded to start deburring the holes in the skins. No issues here except that it took a while with almost 1000 holes to be deburred inside and out. Next I dimpled all the skin holes (except empennage fairing holes) using the DRDT-2. I was able to dimple all the holes with just the DRDT-2 and this tool makes the process so easy. Dimpling using the DRDT-2  Dimpling the skin holes with the skins in this orientation took a little extra care as the dimple die pilot was now lowered in from above, but it...