Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

To finish out the left wing before moving it to the wing cradle, I attached the flap gap fairing that I had previously prepared. These rivets were mostly squeezed with the exception of one bucked rivet and an MSP-42 rivet in the same locations as on the right wing. Unfortunately, I could not attach the aileron gap fairing as I had previously damaged it and will be getting a replacement. Rear spar doubler holes countersunk for an AN4 rivet Left flap gap fairing riveted to the rear spar and top wing skins  With the flap gap fairing riveted on, I moved the left wing assembly into the wing cradle to make space for working on other build sections.  Both wing assemblies in the wing cradle with additional wood blocks clamped at the inboard ends to prevent accidental sliding While the wing structures are mostly complete, there is a lot of work still to be done on the inside for wiring, trim and autopilot servos, pitot tube, and aileron actuation Time Taken:       2...

While I had time in-between getting help with riveting, I decided to tackle a small part of the bottom wing skins section, and work on the flap and aileron gap fairings. These are riveted to the top wing skin and rear spar, and can be installed as soon as the top skins are riveted on (assuming you will be going with an alternative to Van's suggested pitot tube). Flap and aileron gap fairings, and flap gap stiffener ready to be worked on I started by marking the flap gap stiffener for cutting into left and right parts. The were cut on the band saw, and then sanded and deburred to the correct size. Flap gap stiffener marked for cutting I then deburred the edges and holes of each of the fairing, and proceeded to dimple them where needed using the pneumatic squeezer. Here is where I got a little trigger happy with the squeezer on the left aileron gap fairing, and accidentally squeezed before the dimple die pilot was in the hole. This resulted in an additional hole being punched through...