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Bottom Wing Skins 20-4-2 to 20-4-6, Priming

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While I had time in-between getting help with riveting, I decided to tackle a small part of the bottom wing skins section, and work on the flap and aileron gap fairings. These are riveted to the top wing skin and rear spar, and can be installed as soon as the top skins are riveted on (assuming you will be going with an alternative to Van's suggested pitot tube). Flap and aileron gap fairings, and flap gap stiffener ready to be worked on I started by marking the flap gap stiffener for cutting into left and right parts. The were cut on the band saw, and then sanded and deburred to the correct size. Flap gap stiffener marked for cutting I then deburred the edges and holes of each of the fairing, and proceeded to dimple them where needed using the pneumatic squeezer. Here is where I got a little trigger happy with the squeezer on the left aileron gap fairing, and accidentally squeezed before the dimple die pilot was in the hole. This resulted in an additional hole being punched through

Tail Cone 10-23-1 to 10-23-2, 10-24-3

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Back at the end of June 2023, I was finally getting close to the end of the tail cone assembly, just having to rivet the aft top skin in place. I began this by clecoing the skin to the stiffeners, leaving the sides unclecoed.  Aft top skin clecoed to stiffeners and bulkheads I was then able to easily buck all the skin to stiffener rivets as well as rivets along the top of the F-1008 and F-1009 bulkheads. Aft top skin after riveting to stiffeners and top of bulkheads I was able to push the static lines slightly to the side to get the bucking bar against the rivets on the top left stiffener, being careful not to damage the static lines or attachment brackets Next, I clecoed one side of the top skin all the way down to the longerons, and bucked the remaining rivets along that side of the F-1009 bulkhead by reaching through the opening with the bucking bar. Skin riveted to right side of F-1009 bulkhead The remaining rivets in the top skin required a helper, so I temporarily (for almost a y

Wing Outboard Leading Edge (Left) 17-3-13 to 17-3-14

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Moving on to working again on the left wing,  I reassembled the left outboard leading edge and started riveting it together in the same way I had done the right leading edge. Everything went together smoothly and somewhat quicker since I already knew what to expect. Left outboard leading edge after riveting using the same techniques as the right leading edge, with remaining blue plastic removed Inboard rib rivet bucked along the aft edges and squeezed along the curved forward edges Shop heads are all sized to spec Top side of left outboard leading edge Bottom side of left outboard leading edge Time Taken:      9.2  hours  Dates:                    May 14 - May 24 2024 Wing Outboard Leading Edge Total Time:        52.7  hours RV-10 Build Total Time:                                           688.2  hours Priming Total Time:                      81.9 hours  (not included in build time totals)

Wing Outboard Leading Edge (Right) 17-4-2 to 17-4-5

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Prior to moving the right wing into the wing stand, I wanted to finish attaching the outboard leading edge. To do so, I carefully repositioned sawhorses away from the outboard end of the wing where the leading edge get riveted in, and made sure there was no chance of the wing tipping with the additional weight of the leading edge by adding weight and clamps to the sawhorses at the inboard end. Then it was a matter of asking my wife and daughter to hold the leading edge up under the main spar so that I could cleco it into place through the spar. I wiped the wing surface with acetone to clean off any fingerprints and markings prior to attaching the outboard leading edge. Top surface looks even better now! Saw horses removed, and outboard leading edge strategically placed under the main spar so that it can easily be lifted straight up into position. Leading edge clecoed to the main spar I then continued by riveting leading edge to the spar web using LP4-3 pull rivets. For the two outboard