Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

One more practice kit before I start working on my RV-10. Here I wanted to build another trailing edge to see if I had learned anything from my first attempt.  This time around I started by removing the blue film only over the rivet lines. Once the soldering iron gets to the right temperature (level 4 setting on mine), film removal is pretty easy. Parts prepared and ready to drill and rivet Match-drilling the skin stiffeners A vise is also very useful if working alone. Clamping parts in place makes for a much easier time when riveting those parts together. Trailing edge skeleton ready to rivet Match-drilling the skins I think I could have done a better job when drilling the trailing edge wedge, as the wedge was not clamped flush with the forward edge of the skins. It actually was a little behind the forward edge, and that resulted in some issues (discussed later) when riveting the trailing edge together.  I also didn't have a lot of success riveting the rib rivets closest to t...

Before starting on the RV-10 empennage, I wanted to try building another trailing edge practice kit. My goal was to compare it to the first trailing edge that I built back in May, and see if it looked any better, which I would hope would indicate that my skills (drilling, deburring, riveting etc) had improved.  So here I go again with the first part of the trailing edge kit...  Parts prepped for drilling I decided to try countersinking by putting the countersink cage in the drill press. This was the first time I used the countersink cage this way... previously I had always put it into the air drill. With the drill press, I found adjustments of the cage far more intuitive (turn bottom of cage to the right to go deeper, and left to go shallower on the countersink). Once dialed in, I was able to get consistent, perpendicular countersinks each time. I'll therefore be using the drill press to countersink whenever I can.  All other aspects of parts preparation including drillin...

The second part of the Van's Trailing Edge practice kit involves building an actual trailing edge piece (that I believe would be found on an RV-8). This part of the kit comes with 2 skins, 2 ribs, a spar, some stiffeners, doublers and some aluminum angle. The aluminum angle is not actually part of the trailing edge, but is used to make a clamping block to which you can clamp the trailing edge while riveting. The raw parts and instructions are shown below. New project, new parts The first step was to remove the blue plastic from all parts. I tried using a soldering iron to remove only the plastic around holes and edges, but I think I rushed the process and had difficulty removing the plastic strips. So I just went ahead and removed all the plastic. Initially I was thinking it is much easier just to remove all plastic when I start building the real airplane, but after seeing strange scratches appear on the skins while I was constructing the trailing edge, I think I will at least make...

Started working on the Van's Trailing Edge Kit and built the first part which involves drilling, deburring and riveting together 2 pieces of aluminum sheet and some aluminum angle.  This was my first time working with dimples in countersunk holes, and riveting 1/8" rivets. Starting pieces I also tried removing the blue plastic film for the first time using a soldering iron as some other builders are doing. I found that setting the soldering iron to 80% of its maximum setting scored a clean line on the plastic, enabling easy removal with no impact on the underlying aluminum.  I'm not sure if I'll end up doing this when it comes to building the RV-10 as it is additional work that may not be necessary in the long run, but at least I know I have the option. Pulled plastic from the edges of the skin along the rivet lines The next step was to mark the rivet hole locations on the top skin. 24 rivet hole locations marked The remaining holes in the aluminum angle and bottom ski...