Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

The final steps before starting to rivet require deburring and countersinking the front and rear spar #40 holes. To assist in countersinking the spar flange holes, I set up supports at each end of my bench using 2x4s to which I could clamp the spar. I used a similar piece of 2x6 that I would place beneath the hole being countersunk to add support behind the hole. The 2x6 had holes drilled into it to accept the countersink pilot. Setup to countersink the front and rear spar flange holes 2x6 used to add support behind the hole being countersunk. Hole spacing in this piece matches the hole spacing in the spar to minimize the number of times I need to move this piece along the spar In all, there are 492 holes that need to be countersunk in the spars. This took a while, but all countersunk holes turned out well. I had to be careful on the holes at the ends of the flanges as there was less support for the countersink cage. I also taped over the gaps between the spar and spar doubler, as I wa...

Today I primed the remaining parts for the horizontal stabilizer. I began by using EkoEtch to etch all the pieces, making sure that I kept everything organized with the parts close to their associated labels. Having so many similar looking ribs and stringers, it is important to know which piece goes where otherwise holes may not line up when it comes to riveting. Stringers prior to etching, with labels close by Etching large parts outside and using a hose to rinse The ribs were also etched and laid out in order. Etching is the most time consuming part of the priming process as you need to scrub all sides of the parts for 3 minutes each part, then the rinse and dry. Ribs etched and labeled Skins were also etched and rinsed outside, and brought inside to dry. Interior skin surfaces etched and ready for priming Once the ribs had dried thoroughly, I transferred them to the rack I had built that would allow me to easily move them around as they were primed. The ribs were held in place with ...

To get the remaining horizontal stabilizer parts ready for priming, I had to debur all holes, dimple most of them and countersink a lot of them along the stringers and spars. I began by deburring the rib holes, and dimpling the 3/32" holes along the rib flanges (except for those that are for fairing attachment or that sit inside the stringers/spars). This was easily accomplished using the pneumatic squeezer. Ribs and stringer web deburred, dimpled as needed and ready for priming I then proceeded to start deburring the holes in the skins. No issues here except that it took a while with almost 1000 holes to be deburred inside and out. Next I dimpled all the skin holes (except empennage fairing holes) using the DRDT-2. I was able to dimple all the holes with just the DRDT-2 and this tool makes the process so easy. Dimpling using the DRDT-2  Dimpling the skin holes with the skins in this orientation took a little extra care as the dimple die pilot was now lowered in from above, but it...

With all skeleton parts (edges and lightening holes) deburred, it was now time to start assembling the horizontal stabilizer. I attached a couple of 2x4 pieces to the edge of my workbench so that I could place the spar on it, and have the ribs hang down as I match-drilled the ribs to the spar. When all the ribs had been clecoed in position, and in the correct orientation to the front spar, I proceed to match-drill all 1/8" holes common to the ribs and spar. Horizontal stabilizer starting to take shape off the end of my workbench Laying the horizontal stabilizer skeleton on the work bench gives a sense of the size of this piece at about 11ft long Next I took the horizontal stabilizer skins down from the shelf and removed the inner blue film along with a strip around the outside edges. I then deburred all the skin edges and placed the skins into the cradles I had build earlier. Skins resting in their cradles I quickly realized that the strap cradles I had built will not hold the ski...

While waiting for a replacement front spar doubler, I proceeded to start preparing the inspar ribs as per the plans. This involved taking 4 of the ribs and making 2 cuts in the flanges on 2 of them, and 4 cuts in the flanges on the other 2.  I was able to do all the cuts on the band saw, but had to be careful as my 1/2" wide saw blade was a tight fit to get to some of the cuts. All the cuts were clean though, and I used the bench grinder wheels, deburring bits and scotchbrite pads to finish deburring the cuts, and the rest of the ribs including the lightening holes. Inspar ribs with flanges cut and deburred as required Within a few days I received my replacement front spar doubler from Van's. I straightened and deburred it, and carefully upsized the 4 3/16" holes, and match/final drilled them to #12 after attaching the doubler to the front spar. No issues this time, and an AN3-6 bolt fit nicely through all the holes. I checked the other 1/8" holes in the doubler to s...

For this priming session, I primed all parts for the horizontal stabilizer front spar. Because there were only 6 individual parts to be primed, this went relatively quickly. With spray gun/compressor settings dialed in from my previous priming session, I was also much happier with the priming results and used less primer than before (~100 grams in total). Scrubbing down the parts with EkoEtch Letting the parts dry thoroughly All parts primed with Charcoal Gray EkoPrime the next morning Time Taken:       2.0  hours Dates:                    September 2 - September 3 2022 RV-10 Build Total Time:      89.9  hours Priming Total Time:              10.8  hours  (not included in build time totals)

I finally got around to attaching the bottom hinge bracket to the vertical stabilizer after finishing priming the rudder stops. This was fairly straightforward, however I did have to go out to Home Depot and purchase some 1/4" sockets to hold the nuts in place while I tightened the screws. I torqued the bolts holding the rudder stops in place, and applied torque seal, but only tightened the screws holding the bracket to the spar until they were just snug. I don't currently have a torque screwdriver, but will get one and finish torquing those when I attach the empennage parts together (I have made a note in the plans to do this). So now I can say, the vertical stabilizer is COMPLETE! Bottom hinge bracket attached to vertical stabilizer spar My daughter helped peel the rest of the blue film off and put the rudder next to the vertical stabilizer to show the scale of things. Happy with the progress so far! Time Taken:      0.5  hours Dates:       ...

Only two steps left to complete the rudder, form the leading edges and attach the counterbalance weight. Getting close now! To begin with, I formed a bend on the leading edge of the right skin, and therefore decided to have right skin as the overlapping skin. I used the Cleaveland edge forming tool to do this, and it was easier to do this on the right skin, especially at the top section due to the direction of pulling the tool. After researching VAF forums and other builder logs, and reading Van's section 5 over again on the best techniques for rolling leading edges, I felt comfortable enough to begin. I had purchased a 1.25" 3ft long wooden dowel to use for the initial bend, along with Gorilla brand duct tape. Starting at the top leading edge section, I cut a piece of duct tape the length of the section and taped about 1/2" width onto the skin. I then placed the dowel over the tape and skin, and made sure that the dowel was parallel to the rudder spar.  I had read on Va...