Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

It is time to start closing up the rudder. This involves applying tank sealant along the trailing edge while working in a 2-hour window to get the two rudder halves riveted together. I didn't get many pictures during the sealing process (due to having to handle the tank sealant and work efficiently), however the full process is documented in the video below. Here are the highlights I put paper underneath the trailing edge while applying tank sealant, but should have put a little more as I still managed to get some sealant in a few spots on the work bench. I also used wood blocks to rest the trailing edge on, and threw those away after the tank sealant was applied. I applied as thin a coat of tank sealant to the trailing edge as I could. Just enough to adhere to the skin with minimal squeeze out. I used paper towel rolls to keep the skins apart while blind riveting the rudder stiffeners and shear clips together. These worked really well. One roll at the end of the skin, and another ...

Continuing on with the horizontal stabilizer, I began by finishing step 8-3-2 which involves torquing the bolts of the rear spar inboard hinge bracket to spec. I used a CDI 3/8" Drive 0 - 75 In-Lb Dial Torque Wrench and this tool makes it really easy to not just dial in the correct torque, but also figure out the running torque of the nuts to be added to the final torque value. I ended up torquing the bolts to 20-25 In-Lbs (per Van's Section 5 for AN3 bolts) + 5-10 In-Lbs running torque per bolt. Inboard hinge bracket bolts torqued, with torque seal applied Next I began working on the horizontal stabilizer front spar. After deburring the front spar and doubler, I clamped the spar caps to the inside of the spar and started match drilling the holes in the spar web to #30 and spar flanges to #40. Match drilling the front spar to the spar caps I then went and match drilled the front spar attachment brackets (fabricated earlier) to the spar and spar doubler. I used a #31 drill bit ...

With the first set of horizontal stabilizer parts primed, I went ahead and riveted the doubler to the rear spar, paying attention to holes that were to be left open. Rear spar riveted from the back Shop heads will be on the inside of the horizontal stabilizer I then riveted the brackets to the rear spar (manufactured heads on the bracket side), and also riveted together the inboard hinge bracket and attached it to the spar with bolts. Rear spar brackets attached Inboard hinge bracket assembled The next task was to fabricate a couple of front spar attachment brackets from a thick piece of aluminum angle. I began by marking out all the bracket dimensions. Front spar attachment bracket dimensions marked I then used the band saw to cut the brackets, taking several breaks during the cuts because the aluminum really heats up while cutting. Cutting the aluminum angle on the band saw After deburring on the belt sander and bench grinder, I was left with two nicely shaped, accurately sized left ...

Continuing with the rudder build, I began by finishing a few steps on page 7-6 and countersinking the trailing edge wedge. I waited to do this because I wanted to get hold of some aluminum angle that I would later use to hold the rudder edge straight after prosealing, and I first used the trailing edge wedge to match drill #40 holes in the aluminum angle. With the Cleavleand trailing edge countersink jig clamped to my drill press, and my #40 countersink cage set up for the correct depth (flush rivet + 7 clicks), drilling all the countersinks was very straightforward. I only had to keep checking that the lock collar was tight after every 10-15 holes as it had a tendency to come loose over time. I didn't notice this the first time, and a few of my countersinks were slightly deeper than expected (but not by much, just a couple thousandths extra and nothing to worry about). Jig clamped to drill press holds the wedge securely and at the correct angle Nice round consistent countersinks ...

Time to start riveting parts together. I began by highlighting the different rivet types and locations in the plans to make for quicker and easier identification of the required rivets. An example of highlighting rivets being used on the vertical stabilizer rear spar I then proceeded to cleco the vertical stabilizer front and rear spar parts together. Spars ready for riveting The front spar was first up, riveting the doubler plate to the bottom. I had to drill out one of the AN470 rivets as the pneumatic squeezer angled to the side a little as I was squeezing, resulting in an offset shop head. Drilling out was not an issue with the Rivet Removal tool, although I did end up with some minor scratches in the primer coat around the rivet head. First rivets are in! Next up was riveting the top hinge doubler and top hinge bracket to the rear spar. These rivets had to be set in a specific order (central rivets first) to avoid losing access to those rivets once the hinge bracket was riveted in...