Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

The first step of wing rib preparation involves straightening the flanges and fluting the ribs to remove any curvature along the length. Rib flanges need to be at 90 deg. to the web, and rather than using hand seamers and a square to get the flanges to the correct angle, I decided to build a Rib Flange Straightening tool that I found referenced on VAF. Materials needed to build the rib flange straightening tool  For mine, I used the following 2"x2"x3' red oak plank (for handle) 2"x6"x1' red oak plank (for anvil) 3/4"x16"x 8" MDF board (for base) Heavy duty stainless steel hinges 1-5/8" wood screws Wood glue I ripped the 2x2 oak plank in half to make a handle, and rounded over the edges using a handheld router and 3/8" roundover bit. I then cut one end to a 22.5 deg. angle (than will help clear any raised lightning hole edges when bending flanges). Next I ripped the MDF to a length of 16", and the 2x6 oak plank to a width of 4...

While waiting for Van's to provide additional guidance on the use of laser cut parts (of which I have some in my wing kit that I haven't yet worked on), I decided to continue with a few small tasks that were originally planned for later.  One of the tasks involved building the elevator trim mount that will go in the tail cone. The details of this are outlined in Section 11 - Empennage Attach, and involves first fabricating 2 sets of attachment brackets out of aluminum angle. First off are the trim bellcrank brackets that are fabricated from a piece of 3/4"x3/4"x1/16" angle. I started by marking out both bracket hole positions, but quickly realized that the only way to ensure the holes matched and were in line was to first drill both holes in one bracket, and then use that bracket as a guide to drill the holes in the other bracket. Bellcrank brackets marked on aluminum angle prior to drilling... ...after which I decided to drill one bracket first and use it as a g...

There's a little more work to be done on the main spars, and this starts with reaming and countersinking the nutplate and 1/8" rivet holes at the inboard ends of both spars.  Countersinking was straightforward other than the two fuel tank attach nutplate holes closest to the step bars. I used a countersink cutter without a cage to slowly drill these to the required depth. I also had to be careful to make sure I countersunk on the correct side of the spar web as outlined in the plans Using a countersink cutter without cage to slowly drill the two holes closest to the step bars Wing attach nutplate and 1/8 rivet holes countersunk on the aft side of the spar web Fuel tank attach nutplate holes countersunk on the forward side of the spar web Next I continued with fabricating the tie down brackets. I had previously tapped the tie down hole, cut the brackets to size, and drilled a pilot hole. Using the pilot hole, I clecoed the bracket to the spar and then match drilled the #30 and ...

As I am finishing up the wing spar preparation, I decided it was a good time to build the wing cradle that many other builders have constructed. I followed Mouser's wing cradle instructions , and spent a few hours cutting lumber to the required lengths and screwing/glueing the parts together. Wing cradle as I hope it looks after I am done constructing mine. Image courtesy of mouser.org Supply List Castering wheels x 4 2x6x10' x 2 2x4x10' x 3 2x4x8'   x 1 16" x 8' length of carpet Cut Schedule (courtesy of  mouser.org) 10' 28" 28" 28" 24" 9" 10' 28" 24" 24" 24" 16" 10' 24" 24" 23.75" 23.75" 16" 8' 23.75" 10.25" 10.25" 10.25" 10.25 Cutting all lumber to size per the cut schedule with a miter saw After cutting the lumber, I laid out the 3 frames that are connected with the 10' 2x6s. This helped me make sure that I was using the correct pieces in the ...