Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

After finishing deburring the remaining rib and nose skin edges, I was ready to continue fitting and drilling the flaps as documented in the plans. Flap skeletons formed after clecoing ribs and hinge brackets to flap spars Skins were clecoed to the skeletons in the following order Bottom skin Nose skins bottom side Top  skin Nose skins top side I trimmed the flanges of the nose ribs as needed to remove any faceting that remained visible through the nose skins, and also filed the edges of the nose skins where they met in the center of the flaps as there was a slight overlap there. Bottom skin and nose skins clecoed to the skeleton. The nose skins overlap the bottom skin along the spar flange Flap flipped over to allow the top skin to be clecoed in place before completing clecoing of the nose skins Trailing edge wedges being attached. I used wood blocks to hold up the trailing edge of the flap so that it would be more level. The leading edge of the flap was held higher by the hinge subas

To finish out the left wing before moving it to the wing cradle, I attached the flap gap fairing that I had previously prepared. These rivets were mostly squeezed with the exception of one bucked rivet and an MSP-42 rivet in the same locations as on the right wing. Unfortunately, I could not attach the aileron gap fairing as I had previously damaged it and will be getting a replacement. Rear spar doubler holes countersunk for an AN4 rivet Left flap gap fairing riveted to the rear spar and top wing skins  With the flap gap fairing riveted on, I moved the left wing assembly into the wing cradle to make space for working on other build sections.  Both wing assemblies in the wing cradle with additional wood blocks clamped at the inboard ends to prevent accidental sliding While the wing structures are mostly complete, there is a lot of work still to be done on the inside for wiring, trim and autopilot servos, pitot tube, and aileron actuation Time Taken:       2.5  hours  Dates:           

After completing riveting of the left wing top skins, I moved the saw horses around to make room for the left outboard leading edge.  With some help I clecoed the leading edge to the main spar web and flanges. The leading edge went on relatively easily, but I did use skin pins in places to ensure that the holes were lined up as accurately as possible.  Left outboard leading edge placed under the left wing, ready to be lifted into position Leading edge cleacoed in place with a combination of regular clecoes and skin pins Top skin and leading edge skin edges lined up nicely along the top of the wing Tie down hole also lined up perfectly with the tie down attached to the spar Next I used pull rivets to attach the leading edge ribs to the main spar web for all except the inboard most rib. Instead of using a double offset rivet set for the inboard rib where I had previously run into clearance issues on the right leading edge, this time I used a single offset rivet set that I had recently pu

I was able to clear some space in my garage after finishing the tail cone assembly, and moved on to installing the left wing top skins.  Following the same steps I had gone through to attach the right wing top skins, I began by spending some additional time making sure the wing spar was level (not bowed or twisted). I was the able to easily cleco on the top skins and the inboard rib nutplates. Left wing spar leveled and clamped Top skins clecoed to left wing spars and ribs. All parts lined up really well. Inboard rib nutplates clecoed in place My daughter and I then started riveting the top skins to the left wing skeleton as we had previously done for the right wing, staring from the center of the outboard top skin working radially outwards. The beginning of left wing top skin riveting Outboard top left wing skin riveted to the outboard end Once most of the outboard top skin was riveted on, we started riveting the inboard top skin working out from the center again. Making progress on t