Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

In between aileron and flap priming and assembly sessions, I took some time to start preparing parts of the aileron trim bracket. This involved deburring bracket edges and final drilling holes as well as separating spacers.  Aileron trim bracket pieces ready for priming After priming all the parts I put together the aileron trim assembly as described in the plans, and then used a power supply to verify that the trim arm operates as intended. Aileron trim assembly riveted together and bushing/connector inserted into openings Some minor scraping of the primer will be touched up once assembly is complete Upsizing the trim motor attachment holes using a #28 drill bit A cleco clamp came in handy to hold the nut while using a screwdriver from the other side to attach the trim motor to the bracket Trim motor attached to bracket and arm, with wires routed through the bushing Trim motor arm extended to test free movement of trim arm through its entire range. No binding occurred! Cotter pins...

With only a few steps left to complete the ailerons, I removed the trailing edge wedges and got both ailerons ready for applying sealant to the trailing edge. This involved scuffing and acetone wiping the mating surfaces on the skin and trailing edge wedges, and making sure both ailerons were positioned to lay flat on the workbench. Ailerons positioned for inserting the trailing edge wedges This was the last chance for me to check that there was no twist in the ailerons and that they lay completely flat Next I mixed up about 44g of proseal (40g sealant + 4g hardener) using a scale that measures down to 1/100g, and a 60ml syringe to apply the proseal to the trailing edge wedges. After installing both wedges and clecoing them to the alignment jigs, I double checked that both ailerons had zero twist, and left them to cure for several days. First time mixing proseal by hand using a cutoff popsicle stick and an acrylic plate on which to mix. Aileron trailing edges curing. All remaining hole...

Having primed the remaining aileron parts, I had one more task left prior to final aileron assembly and that was to countersink the trailing edge wedges. Countersinking the trailing edge wedges for the ailerons With that done, I started final assembly by riveting the spar doublers to the spars, and then clecoing the nose ribs and counterbalance into the nose skins and using the pneumatic squeezer to set all the solid rivets. I could set most of these with the 3" yoke and the 1/2" flat set, but there was one that required the 4" no-hole yoke. I also had to be careful to avoid hitting the nutplate attached to the inboard nose rib, but taking my time I was able to set all rivets on the first try. Nose skin clecoed to the nose ribs and held in the cradles while I rivet them together Using the pneumatic squeezer to set all the nose skin to rib rivets I used skin pins in the center nose rib along the top side to help pull the holes into alignment. These worked well here as the...

In preparation to install the trailing edge wedge using tank sealant, I first scuffed the wedges and skin interior trailing edges with 150 grit sandpaper, and wiped all parts down with acetone. I also positioned both flaps and trailing edge wedges so that I could easily work with them while applying proseal. In order to keep the trailing edge flat while curing, I used my previously prepared square aluminum tubes, with holes that I had match drilled to the trailing edge. By clecoing the trailing edge to these jigs, the edge is not only kept straight, but the clecoes keep both skins pressed firmly against the wedges while the sealant cures. Both flaps and wedges cleaned and positioned for easy application of sealant After mixing the proseal components, and carefully applying a thin layer to each wedge in turn, I was able to easily cleco the wedges and skins to the aluminum alignment jigs, and leave the sealant to cure for several days. After about 5 days of curing, during which the weath...