Wing Outboard Leading Edge 17-2-1 to 17-3-9
I started work on the wing outboard leading edges by first cutting the cradle forms that will later hold the leading edge assembly during construction.
I decided not to use the VB-11 forms marked on the crate top because they not appear to be accurately drawn based on the shape of the leading edge rib. Instead, I took some scrap 5/8" plywood and traced around a rib, using my scroll saw to cut out the form.
I also decided to cut out 4 forms to make 2 sets of cradles so that I could work on both left and right leading edge assemblies at the same time.
 |
| Leading edge forms cut from 5/8" plywood |
After cutting I stuck 1/16" thick foam tape around the edges of the cut outs that will protect the skin once it is put in place.
 |
| Foam tape attached around cutouts to protect skins |
I then took the wing fuel tank skins from storage because the splice strip that is used to connect the outboard leading edge to the fuel tank is attached to the end of the fuel tank skin, and needs to be removed.
 |
| Removing vinyl from fuel tank skin interior being careful not to bend the skin |
I used a cutoff wheel in the Dremel to cut through most of the tabs holding the splice strips to the fuel tank skins, and used spring clamps to keep the strips from bouncing around during and after cutting. For the tabs at the aft edges of the skin, I instead used a hacksaw to cut through those because I didn't like the way the strip would flex suddenly as the Dremel cut through the final tab.
 |
| Clamps supporting the splice strip while I use a cutoff wheel to cut through the tabs |
Once the splice strips were removed, I cleaned up the edges of the splice strips and fuel tank skins with a drum sander in the Dremel, and this worked really well to remove the remaining bits of tabs.
 |
| Removing any evidence of tabs with a mini drum sander |
I deburred the splice strips and left them aside. Next I took out the leading edge skins, and deburred the edges of those as well (didn't get any pictures though!).
 |
| Left and right splice strips removed and ready for next steps |
I then took two 8ft J-channels, cut them to 76-1/8" long, deburred all edges and marked a line down each channel ~5/16" from the edge.
Due to the J-channel flanges not being a consistent width along the length of the channel, I had to vary the distance of the line from the edge, so it ended up being 9/32" at one end and 5/16" at the other. This was done to ensure edge distances were acceptable from both the outside edge of the J-channel, and from the bend.
With the J-channels cut to size and marked, I set those aside.
 |
| Leading edge J-channels cut to length from 8' pieces, deburred and marked |
Continuing on with the splice strips, I enlarged the nutplate screw holes using a #19 reamer, and ran a #40 reamer through the nutplate attach holes.
 |
| Using a #19 reamer to enlarge the splice strip screw holes |
The plans have you countersink the nutplate attach holes, but given that the skin is 0.032" thick I decided to dimple the holes instead. If I have a choice between dimpling and countersinking (sheet thickness <=0.04"), I will always choose dimpling if it does not cause any secondary issues (e.g. space limitations). Dimpling results in a stronger joint with less chance of messing up the hole.
I first used the DRDT-2 to dimple the #8 screw holes (after having deburred those thoroughly to avoid any cracking). I then dimpled the #40 the nutplate attach holes using the narrow diameter female die to avoid deforming the #8 screw dimples.
 |
| Dimpling the #8 screw holes in the splice strips. Deburring these well beforehand is essential! |
After dimpling the nutplate attach holes, I also dimpled the nutplates so that they will fit over the dimples in the splice strips.
 |
| Dimpling the attach holes in the nutplates to fit over the dimpled holes in the splice strips |
 |
| Splice strips ready for test fitting to leading edge skins |
Side Note (or where have I been the last 6 weeks?)
While waiting for further updates from Van's on laser cut parts, I took a brief break from building to start thinking about engine and electrical options for my RV-10. There are many different options available, and I reached out to several vendors to start getting some additional information that will help me in making my own decisions.
I also went through several builder logs to see what others are doing, and feel that compared to a few weeks ago I definitely have a better understanding and knowledge of what will be involved when I eventually get to working on my electrical system and firewall forward.
It'll also be good to have these systems in mind as I continue with the wing and fuselage build, so that I can plan to accommodate for things like wire routing, firewall passthroughs and component mounting etc. I'll go into my specific choices in future posts as I nail down my own electrical and engine configuration.
Continuing on with the build, I started preparing the leading edge ribs by
- cutting notches in the W-1009 1L/R and 2L/R ribs as specified to fit over the main spar step bars and rivet heads
- deburring all lightening holes and edges
- tapering the leading edge tabs to remove faceting (these will be fine tuned once the ribs are inserted into the skins)
- reaming and deburring all holes
- straightening and fluting the rib flanges to line up the holes and have the ribs lay flat
 |
| Left wing outboard leading edge ribs prepared and ready for assembly |
Build Hints
- A mini drum sander in the Dremel works well for quickly removing cutoff tabs on the splice strips and fuel tank skins
- Carefully debug the nutplate screw holes in the splice strips to avoid any cracks while dimpling. I recommend a #19 reamer for enlarging the holes. This ensures that the holes are clean and round prior to deburring and dimpling.
Time Taken: 11.0 hours
Dates: September 18 - November 2 2023
Wing Outboard Leading Edge Total Time: 11.0 hours
RV-10 Build Total Time: 487.5 hours
Priming Total Time: 50.9 hours (not included in build time totals)