Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

Continuing on with the fuel tanks, I worked on separating the stiffeners. Due to their length, these were easiest to separate using shears. The tabs were then removed on the disc sander. I also cut and kept two vent clips that had been attached to the ends of the pre-formed stiffener angles. Separating the skin stiffeners using shears Shears tend to bend the cut edge slightly, especially on the first cut. I found it better to first cut on the side with the widely spaced notches (where the stiffener end angles will eventually reside), as the bent edge would be trimmed away.  The end angles were then marked for cutting with the band saw. Cuts are made relative to notches in the aluminum angle. I drew lines to help guide a straight cut. Once the 28 stiffeners were cut to size, final deburring of these and 2 vent clips was done using the deburring wheel. I also reamed all the holes with a #40 reamer. Stiffeners and vent clips deburred and ready for test fitting to skin Next I straightened,

After deburring the left wing outboard leading edge ribs, I test fit one of the ribs into the skin. I noticed that the leading edge was still somewhat tight and wanted to avoid any dimples showing in the skin after clecoing. To take care of this remaining faceting in the tabs, I went back and forth to the deburring wheel and removed additional material around the tab bends. After a couple of trips, the ribs fit nicely and I saw no issues with any skin deformation at the leading edges. Leading edge rib deburred to remove faceting Initial attempt to remove rib faceting (right), with additional deburring (left) for the ribs to fit well All ribs fully deburred and ready for fitting into the leading edge skin Placing and clecoing the leading edge ribs to the skin was fairly straightforward as I had taken a lot of care to ensure the rib flanges were fluted adequately. I made sure that the ribs were oriented correctly and decided to cleco every hole to ensure everything was held tightly for d

Fuel tank skins are worked on prior to starting the fuel tank section of the build because the splice strips that connect the fuel tanks to the outboard leading edges are attached to one side of each skin. These strips need to be removed as detailed in section 17 of the plans. After the removing the splice strips with a cutoff wheel in the Dremel, I decided to finish deburring all edges of the fuel tank skins while I had them on the work bench. Splice strip removed from fuel tank skin. Edges were then cleaned up and deburred Next I took the fuel tank Z-bracket strips, and separated the brackets at the tabs using the band saw. I then cleaned up and deburred all the edges on the belt sander and deburring wheels. Fuel tank Z-brackets being separated using the band saw Z-brackets after deburring all edges. I labeled them L and R for now just to keep two separate piles. I then fabricated the two T-1009 J-channels by cutting the two remaining 6ft J-channels in the wing kit to a length of 64-

While building the cradles for the outboard leading edges, I decided to also build the cradles for the flaps. This involves first marking out the cradle forms on the leading edge form cutouts. I used the dimensions in the plans, and as with the outboard leading edges I build 6 cradles (rather than 3) so that I will be able to work on both flaps at the same time. Flap cradle forms marked... Each cradle form was cut using the scroll saw, cutting about 1/16" - 3/32" outside the line to allow for padding and the skin that will go over the nose rib. ... and cut using a scrollsaw After assembling the 6 cradles, I attached a 1/16" adhesive foam strip around the cut outs that will protect the skin once it is put in place. Flap cradles assembled (enough to work on both flaps at the same time) Foam padding added to protect flap skins Time Taken:       2.5  hours Dates:                    September 18 - September 20 2023 Wing Flap Total Time:          2.5  hours RV-10 Build Total T

I started work on the wing outboard leading edges by first cutting the cradle forms that will later hold the leading edge assembly during construction.  I decided not to use the VB-11 forms marked on the crate top because they not appear to be accurately drawn based on the shape of the leading edge rib. Instead, I took some scrap 5/8" plywood and traced around a rib, using my scroll saw to cut out the form. I also decided to cut out 4 forms to make 2 sets of cradles so that I could work on both left and right leading edge assemblies at the same time. Leading edge forms cut from 5/8" plywood After cutting I stuck 1/16" thick foam tape around the edges of the cut outs that will protect the skin once it is put in place. Foam tape attached around cutouts to protect skins I then took the wing fuel tank skins from storage because the splice strip that is used to connect the outboard leading edge to the fuel tank is attached to the end of the fuel tank skin, and needs to be rem