Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

My next practice project was the Van's Toolbox kit. The instructions didn't call out specific riveting techniques (back rivet, squeezing or bucking) to use, so I decided to go with whatever riveting technique I felt would be appropriate, and easier, for the specific situation. Tool Box parts I also decided to try (again) to remove only parts of the blue plastic where I would be working, leaving all other plastic in place to protect the aluminum surface from scratches as long as possible. This meant removing the plastic from all edges and along rivet lines.  Once again I plugged in the soldering iron (setting 4), and found  it definitely helps to let it heat up for at least 5 minutes (to get sufficiently hot) before trying to melt the plastic. Below you can see all parts with plastic removed where needed.  Plastic stripped of all edges and rivet lines The first steps in this project involved getting the tool box sides ready for riveting. Nothing too hard here. Tool box sides rea

The second part of the Van's Trailing Edge practice kit involves building an actual trailing edge piece (that I believe would be found on an RV-8). This part of the kit comes with 2 skins, 2 ribs, a spar, some stiffeners, doublers and some aluminum angle. The aluminum angle is not actually part of the trailing edge, but is used to make a clamping block to which you can clamp the trailing edge while riveting. The raw parts and instructions are shown below. New project, new parts The first step was to remove the blue plastic from all parts. I tried using a soldering iron to remove only the plastic around holes and edges, but I think I rushed the process and had difficulty removing the plastic strips. So I just went ahead and removed all the plastic. Initially I was thinking it is much easier just to remove all plastic when I start building the real airplane, but after seeing strange scratches appear on the skins while I was constructing the trailing edge, I think I will at least make

Started working on the Van's Trailing Edge Kit and built the first part which involves drilling, deburring and riveting together 2 pieces of aluminum sheet and some aluminum angle.  This was my first time working with dimples in countersunk holes, and riveting 1/8" rivets. Starting pieces I also tried removing the blue plastic film for the first time using a soldering iron as some other builders are doing. I found that setting the soldering iron to 80% of its maximum setting scored a clean line on the plastic, enabling easy removal with no impact on the underlying aluminum.  I'm not sure if I'll end up doing this when it comes to building the RV-10 as it is additional work that may not be necessary in the long run, but at least I know I have the option. Pulled plastic from the edges of the skin along the rivet lines The next step was to mark the rivet hole locations on the top skin. 24 rivet hole locations marked The remaining holes in the aluminum angle and bottom ski