Continuing on in section 29, I match drilled the holes in the F-1005E gussets into the F-1046 longerons. This was fairly easy using a right angle drill with a #30 bit, but I took time to ensure that
- the gusset and longeron were positioned to ensure that the resulting holes in the longeron would meet edge distance requirements
- the drill was held perpendicular to the gusset while drilling from underneath
 |
| I marked a line with tape 1/4" beyond the center of the holes in the gussets, and used that to help position the longeron along the gusset to ensure that the match drilled hole edges would be at least 3/16" in from the edge of the longeron |
 |
| Holes were match drilled and clecoed one at a time |
 |
| Success! After drilling and checking all holes, edge distance requirements were met |
 |
| I also made sure that the outer edge of the longeron sat flush with the flange of the F-1005C bulkhead |
 |
| Right side gusset holes drilled |
 |
| Left side gusset holes drilled the same way |
Next I match drilled the skin holes into the F-1046 longerons. The longeron position was adjusted as needed to ensure that the guideline previously marked was centered within the skin holes prior to drilling. Holes were initially drilled to 3/32" and then reamed to #40.
 |
| Match drilling and clecoing left side longeron holes |
 |
| Drilled holes were well positioned along the longeron |
I then also match drilled the aft skin holes into the F-1013 longerons in the same way
 |
| Match drilled holes in the F-1013L longeron |
 |
| I used clamps as needed to keep the longeron guideline centered within the skin holes while drilling. The longeron didn't require much persuasion to get the guide line in the right place, but the clamp let me focus on drilling rather than positioning the longeron |
 |
| All skin holes match drilled to left side longerons |
 |
| From the inside, longeron holes look good |
 |
| Match drilling was repeated for the right side skin to longeron holes |
 |
| Again, holes came out great along the length of the longeron |
With the aft fuse holes match drilled, I turned my attention to the forward fuselage and started on twisting the upper and lower fuse channels.
 |
| Upper and lower fuse channels deburred and ready for twisting. I also cut two small blocks of oak to aid in clamping as outlined in the plans, and marked the twist directions at each end of each fuse channel to ensure the twist was done correctly |
 |
| Twisting was done with a crescent wrench, and the angle was checked with an electronic angle finder |
 |
| Lower fuse channels required a 20 deg. twist. This took a little time to make sure the angle was exactly correct without overtwisting, but once done the fuse channel fit nicely to the fuselage |
 |
| 20 deg. twist in the lower right fuse channel |
 |
| Lower right fuse channel also fit perfectly with the correct twist |
 |
| Upper fuse channel twist was easier to impart as it only requires an 8 deg twist, however it is still easy to over twist if not careful |
Next, I attached the gussets and clips to the fuse channels and bulkheads to ensure that everything lined up correctly. The lower fuse channel clips also required a slight bend to accommodate the angle at which the lower fuse channels meet the bulkheads.
 |
| F-1042E gusset and backing plate clecoed to upper fuse channel and bulkhead. All holes lined up well |
 |
| To impart the bend in the lower fuse channel backing clip, I placed it in the vise clamped along the bend line, and used a mallet to get the bend going |
 |
| Checking the amount of bend with a scrap piece of wood cut at a 4.1 deg angle |
 |
| Right lower fuse channel clecoed to bulkhead with bent clip |
 |
| Left side lower clip also fit well after bending |
 |
| Lower fuse channel clips ready for priming |
 |
| There were also some nutplate attach holes on the upper fuse channels that required countersinking, so I took care of this before forgetting |
After completing work on the forward fuse understructure, I moved on to rolling of the forward side skins. These are a little trickier to roll than the aft side skins because the instructions have you clamp the roll construction angles (previously fabricated) a little further in from the edge of the skin rather than being clecoed together through the skin holes.
Having done some research and reading about issues encountered by other builders with clamps slipping off the angles, I came across an interesting technique mentioned in the rv10.org wiki which used additional angles clamped behind and also to the roll construction angles, which could then also be clecoed through the skin holes to prevent slipping.
With the roll construction angles clamped in place on the forward fuse skin, and one of the additional angles clamped to its roll construction angle, I then match drilled the skin holes into the additional angle, and finally match drilled those holes into the other angle. The result is that all 4 angles end up being clecoed to eachother and to the skin.
