Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

In preparation to install the trailing edge wedge using tank sealant, I first scuffed the wedges and skin interior trailing edges with 150 grit sandpaper, and wiped all parts down with acetone. I also positioned both flaps and trailing edge wedges so that I could easily work with them while applying proseal. In order to keep the trailing edge flat while curing, I used my previously prepared square aluminum tubes, with holes that I had match drilled to the trailing edge. By clecoing the trailing edge to these jigs, the edge is not only kept straight, but the clecoes keep both skins pressed firmly against the wedges while the sealant cures. Both flaps and wedges cleaned and positioned for easy application of sealant After mixing the proseal components, and carefully applying a thin layer to each wedge in turn, I was able to easily cleco the wedges and skins to the aluminum alignment jigs, and leave the sealant to cure for several days. After about 5 days of curing, during which the weath

Having gotten the ailerons up to the point of final assembly, I went ahead and primed the remaining parts which included just the nose skins and the spars. I also threw in the aileron trim parts that I recently started working on (more on this in an upcoming post), and priming all these did not take much time. More parts ready to prime Aileron and aileron trim parts ready for primer after being cleaned with EkoEtch Aileron nose skins and spars primed... ... along with aileron trim brackets and other small parts Primer used:   ~68g + 7g distilled water  Time Taken:      2.3  hours Dates:                    October 5 2024 - October 6 2024 RV-10 Build Total Time:      815.1  hours Priming Total Time:                102.2  hours  (not included in build time totals)

Continuing on section 21 with the ailerons, I pulled out the top and bottom skins and deburred all edges. I then also deburred the stainless steel counterweight tube ends (these were already cut to the length specified in the plans when I received the kit), as well as the aileron spars and nose skin edges. Aileron parts ready to be worked on again Several holes need to be drilled into the stainless steel counterbalance tubes, starting with holes that attach the counterbalance to the FL-1004 nose ribs. Rather than drilling through the holes in the aileron skins as suggested in the plans, I chose instead to mark the hole locations in turn on a piece of masking tape attached to the steel tube and then use the drill press to drill the holes. The reason for this was that, having never drilled holes into stainless steel before, I did not want to run the risk of enlarging the holes in the aileron skin. I had read that stainless steel was much harder to drill into than aluminum and there was a