Alex's Vans RV-10 Build Log

The next few steps in preparing the spars have you countersinking all the (hundreds of )holes to various depths, and riveting tank attach and access panel nutplates in place.  First off, I reamed all remaining 3/32" holes to #40 (those that I had not previously drilled) as they are all slightly undersized. I continued by clamping the spar on its side, and taping off any areas where metal chips could enter which would then be difficult to remove.  Spar clamped to workbench and any areas where metal chips could fall in are taped off with masking tape I then countersunk all the nutplate attach rivet holes for tank attachment and access panels to flush rivet depth. I also countersunk the 7 rib to spar attach rivet holes that were in line with the tank attach nutplates to flush rivet depth on each spar flange (28 holes in total). Countersinking nutplate attach rivet holes to flush depth. I used a rivet to test each and every holes as I drilled to ensure that the countersink cage wa...

As I finish up the tail cone (with the required help to set the last few remaining rivets), I decided to start on construction of the wings, so I pulled out the spars from storage, laid them down on the workbench and removed them from the plastic bagging. Upon detailed examination, the spars and anodized coating look great.  There is a small scratch (1/8" wide) in the coating on one of the spars that appears to have been made before the spars were shipped, but after checking with Van's builder support they recommended just smoothing it out and spot priming that area, so I will do that when I spot prime other parts of the spar after drilling. I also labelled each spar to easily identify the top/bottom and forward/aft sides. Spars (and other wing parts) laid out prior to starting wing construction The first part of wing construction involves preparing the spar to accept wing ribs, skins and other attachments. This begins with attaching spar extensions to the ends of each spar, t...

Prior to attaching the top skin to the tail cone, I took some time to work on the static ports and lines. I am using the Dynon static ports and have decided to epoxy them to the side skins. The epoxy I am using is Scotch-Weld 2216 Epoxy Adhesive. Epoxy adhesive attached to dispenser gun I temporarily attached the bulkhead fittings to get a better idea of how they fit, and left those in place while I attached the static ports. Bulkhead fittings temporarily held in place with clamped bolts I started preparing the static ports for installation by scuffing the attachment surface with 150 grit sandpaper. I also scuffed the side skin surfaces around the static port holes with the same sandpaper, and wiped off any residue with acetone. I then attached the elbow joints to the static ports as I felt it was easier to screw those in now than when the port was attached. Working on each static port in turn, I applied a thin bead of adhesive to the static port, and used a popsicle stick to spread it...

Moving on to a new page in the plans, I squeezed the rivets attaching the bellcrank angles to the bellcrank ribs, leaving open the two holes at the forward end of the right rib. Squeezing rivets to attach the bellcrank angles to the ribs All rivets set (except for 2 as directed). The nutplates did not interfere with rivet setting I then clecoed the bellcrank ribs to the bottom skin and bulkheads, and was able to buck the rivets (long arms helped here). Bellcrank ribs clecoed in position, and ready to have rivets bucked Next, I worked on the rivets holding the bellcrank rib flanges to the F-1007 bulkhead. I am attaching the Garmin Yaw Servo mount at this point because it needs to be riveted through 4 of the same holes, but I am using AN470 4-5 rivets in those holes, rather than the plans specified 4-4 rivets. I had attempted to squeeze the top two 4-4 rivets first because those are not attached to the servo mount, but quickly found that this will not work because there is a nutplate ver...